By the time my mom and I stepped onto our flight to Paris, all the work was done. It was time to sit back and see where our careful blend between planning and no planning at all would lead us. We were returning to the City of Light after nine years and a pandemic. Knowing we would be surrounded by a good portion of our shared interests, we were tempted to hit the ground running—galleries, patisseries, fromageries, that wine cellar we read about last year, etc. But that was not what either of us needed amid a very busy spring. We needed to tack.
Paring back our ambitious to-do list, we decided to skip the Louvre in favor of more time at the Musé D’Orsay; swap out a hotel room in a bustling area for a beautifully furnished, homey Airbnb tucked away in the 4th Arrondissement; and—perhaps most importantly—account for much-needed downtime. While it was hard for us to make some sacrifices, we knew that allowing for quiet time strolling the Luxembourg Gardens or reading at a local café would put both of us more at ease.
There are many different kinds of travelers. From the ardent timekeepers packing every moment with sightseeing to the impromptu, “all I need is my passport,” vagabond, it is important to think about what kind of experience feels best to you. If you have the time and the means, I would encourage some experimentation. It was definitely outside our comfort zone to slow things down. But doing so led to a more rejuvenating trip that left space for the occasional (and much-needed) afternoon nap; prolonged meals; and some unexpected, treasured shopping finds we never would have stumbled across had we been racing from one place to the next. So, here are some tips on how to plan, and not plan, for a relaxing five days in Paris.
Disclaimer: This trip may spark a sudden urge to browse Zillow for available studio apartments.
Where to Stay in Paris: The 4th & 8th Arrondissements
Opting for a cozy Airbnb tucked away in the Latin Quarter couldn’t have been a better decision. Even though ascending to our bird’s nest required climbing seven—yes, seven—flights of stairs, our little Parisian apartment quickly became one of the highlights of our trip. The lovely host had filled her home with what felt like several lifetimes’ worth of travel curios, rich textiles, books, and gorgeously curated furniture. The personal touches that surrounded us sparked inspiration. We spent one evening planning our next trip away, kept an eye out during our shopping adventures for little curios to add to our collections, and even opted for a night in—sponsored by wine and cheese—to recoup from a 13,000-step day.
Feeling tuned into the place you are visiting, even when taking some downtime, means you can let go of the guilt for not always being out and about. You are still absorbing a new experience, just at a more comfortable pace for your body and mind. That said, not everyone is at ease renting out somebody else’s home. If you feel more comfortable in a hotel, I recommend going boutique. Request a room on an upper level, with east- or west-facing windows; and your bird’s eye view, combined with the cozy comfort of a smaller establishment, will provide a similar experience. I recommend La Réserve. This luxury hotel is situated on a quiet street in the 8th Arrondissement, but it feels like staying in a friend’s treasured home. The hotel has everything you need, including an indoor pool, gym, bar, and outdoor restaurant.
What to Eat: Pastries & Cheese
If you’re like me and love cheese, love to learn, and don’t know much about French agricultural practices, I highly recommend this Montmartre Cheese and Wine Tasting Experience. At $55 a person, this activity is well worth the price. It is held in a small, locally owned shop called Fromagerie Racine in Montmartre. The owner, an artisan expert in cheese and making English speakers feel right at home, closed down the shop for the two-hour tasting. Dining in privacy at the singular table in the middle of the shop, we tried eight cheeses and four wines. Our guide was exceedingly generous with his portions (we couldn’t even finish the plate), as well as informative and charming. Plus, it brings you to the quaint Montmartre area—go on a Friday or Saturday and hit up the local farmer’s markets before your tasting for a local experience.
While we did end up with a hefty bag of delicious slabs from Fromagerie Racine to take home with us, we couldn’t stop there. The most impressive fromagerie we found—in terms of available selection, price point, and general experience—was Barthélémy (pictured right), located in the 5th Arrondissement. Pop in here to sample, smell, and buy some of the most glorious cheeses you can find.
Pro tip: Plan to eat at least one or two slabs during your stay (perhaps during a picnic on the Seine), and get the rest sealed for travel. This makes for a less-stressful packing experience when it’s time to go home—particularly if you selected a few soft cheeses.
The sheer volume of patisseries and boulangeries in Paris can feel overwhelming. And looking up “the best pastries in Paris” will likely leave you feeling even more confused.
So, here are three recommendations for tackling this very serious business:
- Look for the little green sticker on the window or door of the boulangerie that says “Artisan.” They can only use these stickers if their breads and pastries are made in-house. This will narrow the selection much more quickly as you walk about trying to decide where to stop.
- If you see a line of well-dressed people, it’s a good sign. The French don’t mind waiting for quality bread, and it’s pretty easy to distinguish locals from tourists.
- Gamify your pastry experience.
Let me explain that last one. My mom owns a bakery in Western Massachusetts and is learning how to make chocolate eclairs. So, we did some market research and went on a quest to find the best rendition. While this is not a comprehensive review, we did try somewhere north of 20. Not on any list, the best chocolate eclair in Paris was made by the Boulangerie Beaubourg in the 3rd Arrondissement. While we tried many treats from each of these establishments, homing in on one specific type of pastry made it a fun challenge. We got a ranking system going and compared each one we tried to the others—this provided some structure to our wild goose chase and turned visiting countless shops into a very entertaining and enjoyable game.
Pro tip: Grab a few extra pastries to return to your apartment or hotel room. They may be inconvenient to carry around, but if you bring a tote, you will be very happy to have them after your downtime snack of bread, cheese, and wine.
What to Do: Landmarks, Shopping & Tours
This is where you are going to have to exercise some restraint. While it is tempting to try to see a significant site every day, I recommend choosing just a couple off of this list: The Eiffel Tower, The Louvre, Musé D’Orsay, Sacre Coeur, Luxembourg Gardens, Notre Dame, and The Pantheon. These famous locations are worth a trip, but spend too long running from one to the next, and you will find your time in Paris overrun by crowds of tourists. Instead, opt for just a couple scattered throughout your stay, and don’t be afraid to leave plenty of time for free-range exploration in the surrounding area.
A city famed for its couture, Paris has plenty of luxury shopping. I wouldn’t blame you if you head straight for Maje, but don’t forget about the boutique options, too. A particular favorite of mine is Nina Kendosa Paris in the 6th, where you will find the last word in indulgent loungewear. A hole-in-the-wall leather goods shop called Sidonis Maroquinerie in the 18th is also worth a visit—a great place to stop after seeing Sacre Coeur. The proprietor seems to have morphed with his shop over the decades, eventually becoming part of the wall of haphazardly placed yet perfectly maintained, gorgeous vintage purses. It’s a little hard to spot, but you’ll make his day and yours because it’s impossible to walk out of there without picking up one of his collection. For those classic Parisian textiles, I recommend a stop at Simrane, which offers a beautiful selection of handmade quilts, throw pillows, placemats, etc.
Don’t forget your umbrella.
Finally, there are several tours that, while a bit cheesy, can add a really special element to your trip. Sitting back and letting someone else take the wheel for a few hours while you get to soak in the sights and architecture the city is known for is a lovely reprieve from the impossible decisions you had to make all day. Boulangerie or fromagerie? The designer first or the boutique? I recommend an evening boat tour along the River Seine. Bateaux Parisiens is a great option. Starting close to the Eiffel Tower base, you will cruise along for about two hours (depending on the package you select) and understand why it is called The City of Light. Green River Cruises offers a beautiful selection of private services if you want to avoid other people for an even more relaxing experience.
